Buzkazi

My first visit to Afghanistan was in 1974. Like most Americans, I had no idea where it was before I went there. A few days after I arrived in Kabul I had the great fortune to be able to attend a wedding party for the king's nephew. I have never felt so uneducated as I did that night (despite having my doctorate at the time). The progeny of the diplomatic corps along with the extended royal family had been to the best schools all over the world. They all spoke multiple languages. Further details will perhaps be the subject of a future post.
A 4 hour bus ride from Kabul brought me to a place named Bamian. Bamian would later be in the news after the Taliban spent many weeks dynamiting two glorious 160 foot tall Buddhas that were carved into a mountain there.


(This is a shot of one of the Buddhas in 1975. You can see the scale by the two people at the bottom.) I will never cease to be amazed at the pain and suffering that humans can descend to when they have the certitude of their convictions. Band-e-Amir was three hours by truck on a non-existent road. Band-e-Amir is one of the prettiest places I have ever been. It is a series of 7 lakes in the middle of stark desert like surroundings. Each lake is crystal clear and each is a different color. It was here that I watched buzkazi being played. Buzkazi is played on horseback. The idea is to grab a sheep and carry to your goal. The other team does what it can to stop you and score their own goal. The only way to see the game is on horseback. A full game can take up to 3 days to play. This shot was taken as I stood in the field where they were playing. I was about 20 feet from these riders.